Friday, 27 February 2015

Back to Basics - Deep Conditioning 101 (continued)

Hey everyone. I am back with the last part of the deep conditioners section. If you need to refresh your memory, here's part 1.

Now, maybe I should backtrack a bit, and say that there are 3 types of conditioners on the market, namely:

1. Instant conditioners
2. Deep conditioners/hair masks
3. Leave in conditioners

Instant conditioners are conditioners that are not really meant to penetrate your strands. Their job is to make hair easy to detangle, to increase hair shine, and to fill in whatever flaws that are on the strand cuticle. Instant conditioners are good for co-washing and are a better option when you do not have time to deep condition. In my opinion, a great instant conditioner has plenty of slip, and has no mineral oil in the ingredients list. One of my favorite instant conditioners is the Herbal Essences Hello Hydration (unfortunately I haven't found it in Zim yet). Tresemme also has some good instant conditioners.

Deep conditioners/hair masks are conditioners specially formulated to penetrate hair strands. Their job is to repair the strand from the cortex, and also repair flaws on the surface. Deep conditioners (with slip) are perfect for detangling. Deep conditioners should always be used with heat to allow maximum penetration of all the goodness into the hair. My favorite deep conditioners include ORS Replenishing conditioner, ORS Hairepair nourishing conditioner and the Dabur Vatika naturals conditioners.

Leave in conditioners are conditioners that you apply to your hair after washing and leave them in until your next wash day. They help in boosting the moisture or protein in your hair. Some schools of thought have suggested that most leave in conditioners are actually just watered down instant conditioners. One of my favorite leave in conditioners is Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Split End Protector.

All of these conditioners have one thing in common. They are all either protein or moisture conditioners.

Protein conditioners focus more on strengthening the hair strand by infusing it with hydrolysed proteins. If you see a conditioner with any ingredient such as hydrolysed silk or wheat in the first 5 ingredients, that conditioner is a protein conditioner. Protein conditioners are also divided into heavy, medium and light protein conditioners.

Examples of heavy protein conditioners - Aphogee 2  step,

Examples of medium protein conditioners - ORS Hair Mayo,

Examples of light protein conditioners - Aphogee 2 Minute Keratin reconstructor, ORS Replenishing conditioner, ORS Hairepair Nourishing conditioner

Moisture conditioners are conditioners that focus more on infusing your hair with moisture. Their ingredients lists will often have humectants (a substance that absorbs or helps another substance retain moisture) in the first 5 ingredients. Humectants include glycerin, honey and aloe vera.

Examples of moisture conditioners - Herbal Essences Hello Hydration, Elasta QP DPR 11+ Deep Penetrating Remoisturising conditioner

My next post will be about protein/moisture balance and how to detect if your hair is off balance and how to correct the situation.

Have a great weekend everyone!!          

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